SAFEGUARDS | Softlines NO. 144/17

SafeGuardS jeans

The Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of the People’s Republic of China announced that the revised Industry Standard FZ/T 81006-2017 < Jeanswear > will be officially implemented on the October 1, 2017. This revised standard will replace FZ/T 81006-2007 <Jeanswear>.

 

1. Applicable Scope

This standard applies to woven jeanswear which are mainly made of pure cotton or cotton fiber.

This standard does not apply to garments for infants (not older than 36 months).

2. Main Technical Changes

Compared with <FZ/T 81006-2007>, the main technical changes of <FZ/T 81006-2017>are as follows:

    1. Revised the applicable scope of the standard

    2. Added and revised some normative references

    3. Revised the English translation of some terms, i.e. changed “Washing Product” to “Washed Jeanswear” and changed “Original Product” to “Unwashed Jeanswear”. Deleted the terms and definitions of “Regular Jeanswear” and “Colour Jeanswear”

    4. Added information for instruction for use

    5. Revised the requirements for raw material, shell and lining; added the requirements about “decorative laces”, “cords and drawstrings”, “elastic webbing” in accessories; revised the requirements for buttons, decorative buttons, zippers and other attached materials

    6. Revised the requirements for skewness of warp yarn and weft yarn

    7. Deleted the information about stitching fabrics

    8. Revised the specifications and requirements about appearance defects and revised relevant details in the table footnotes

    9. Revised the sewing rules: stipulating the specifications for different sewing threads; deleting the requirements about sewing buttons; and revising the requirements about marks and permanent labels.

    10. Revised the tolerances for specification and deviation-the sleeve length is examined as per long sleeve and short sleeve respectively, and have different requirements. Revised relevant details in the table footnote

    11. Revised the requirement about the symmetrical part in ironing appearance

    12. Revised the requirements for physical and chemical properties: added the provisions of “Jeanswear for children (36 months~14 years old) shall comply with the requirements of GB 31701”; revised the requirements for colorfastness to light; deleted the requirements for colorfastness for infant’s products; revised the requirements for breaking force; revised the requirements for abrasion resistance of finished products; revised the requirements for seam slippage; deleted the requirements on peeled off strength for garments adhesive interlining; added the requirements for jeans button attachment strength; added the requirements for appearance after washing; revised the requirements for general safety performance

    13. Revised the test method for the determination of appearance, revising the measuring method for the specification of finished products and yarn skewness

    14. Added the test method for physical and chemical properties: added the temperature of tumble drying for the test of dimensional change after washing; added the provision of sampling position for the test of abrasion resistance; revised the provision of sampling position and test method of seam slippage; added the test method of jeans button attachment strength; deleted the test method of peeled off strength for garments adhesive interlining; added the test method of appearance after washing; added the provision of “the test methods of other physical and chemical items shall be in accordance with GB/T 21294”.

    15. Revised the inspection rules for finished products

    16. Revised the information in Appendix A

    17. Revised the information in Appendix B

    18. Deleted the information in Appendix C and Appendix D

    19. Added the information in Appendix C

3. Instruction for Use

Instruction for use shall comply with the requirement of GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701 and the words “Washed Jeanswear” or “Unwashed Jeanswear” shall be indicated in the instruction. If the jeanswear has undergone a special process, such as special abrasion process or a destructive washing process, it shall be indicated in the instruction.

4. Requirements for Physical and Chemical Properties

Jeanswear for children (36 months -14 years old) shall comply with the requirements of GB 31701. Physical and chemical properties for jeanswear products are given in Table 1.

Table 1 Requirements for Physical and Chemical Properties

Items Superior grade
 First grade
 Qualified grade
Fiber content/%
 Shall comply with the requirement of GB/T 29862
Formaldehyde content /(mg/kg)
Shall comply with the requirements of GB 18401
pH value
Decomposable carcinogenic arylamines dyes /(mg/kg)
Odour

 

 

 

 

 

 

Unwashed
Jeanswear

 Dimensional
change
after
washing
a, b/%		 Collar
 -1.5～+1.0
 -2.0～+1.0
 -2.5～+1.0
Chest girth
 -2.0～+1.0
 -2.5～+1.0
 -3.0～+1.5
Top length
 -2.0～+1.0
 -2.5～+1.0
 -3.0～+1.5
Waist girth
 -1.5～+1.0
 -2.0～+1.0
 -2.5～+1.5
Trouser (skirt) length
 -2.0～+1.0
 -2.5～+1.0
 -3.0～+1.5
Color
fastness
to/grade ≥		 Washing Change
4
 3-4
 3
Staining
 3
              2-3
Dry Rubbing Staining
 3-4
               3
Light Change
 4
               3
Perspiration Change
 4
 3-4
 3
Staining
 3-4
               3
Water Change
 4
 3-4
 3
Staining
 3-4
                3

Breaking
force
c, f/N ≥

 ＞339 g/m2 Warp
                                      450
Weft
                                      300
245 g/m2~339 g/m2 Warp
                                      300
Weft
                                      250
＜245 g/m2 Warp
                                      200
Weft
                                      150
Tear
force
c, f/N ≥		 ＞339 g/m2
 Warp
                                       25
Weft
                                       18
245 g/m2~339
g/m2
 Warp
                                       23
Weft
                                       18
＜245 g/m2
 Warp
                                       15
Weft
                                       11

 

 

 

 

Washed
Jeanswear

 Dimensional
change
after
washing
a, b/%		 Collar
 -1.5～+1.0
                                -2.0～+1.5
Chest girth
 -1.5～+1.0
                                -2.5～+1.5
Top length
 -1.5～+1.0
                                -2.5～+1.5
Waist girth
 -1.5～+1.0
                                -2.5～+1.5
Trouser (skirt) length
 -1.5～+1.0
                                -2.5～+1.5
Color
fastness
to/grade ≥		 Washing Change
4
                 3-4
Staining
 3
                 2-3
Dry Rubbing
 Staining
 3-4
                  3
Light
 Change
 4
                  3
Perspiration Change
 4
                 3-4
Staining
 3-4
                   3
Water Change
 4
                 3-4
Staining
 3-4
                   3
Breaking
force
c,f/N ≥		 ＞339 g/m2 Warp
                                         320
Weft
                                         200
245 g/m2~339 g/m2 Warp
                                         250
Weft
                                         150
＜245 g/m2 Warp
                                         150
Weft
                                         150
Tear
force
c,f/N ≥		 ＞339 g/m2 Warp
                                         18
Weft
                                         16
245 g/m2~339 g/m2 Warp
                                         16
Weft
                                         14
＜245 g/m2 Warp
                                         13
Weft
                                         10
Abrasion resistance
c, d, f/rubs ≥		 ＞339g/m2
 25 000
                   20 000
≤ 339g/m2
 15 000
                   10 000
Seam slippage
e, f/cm ≤		                                         0.6
Max. force to seam rupture
for trouser back rise f/N		 ＞339g/m2
                                        180
≤ 339g/m2
                                        140
Jeans button attachment strengthh No fall-off or breakage to occur when fixed load is 200 N
Spirality after washing g/cm
 2.0
                     3.0
Spirality shift after washing g/cm
 1.5
                     2.5
Appearance after washing
 No fall-off, breakage, corrosion, distortion or obvious spirality to occur,
and no raveling of seam is allowed
Note: elastic products refer to those fabric products containing elastic fiber, e.g. elastane.

a For the dimensional change of collar after washing, only test products with stand-collar.

b For products with elastic waistband, do not test the dimensional change after washing of waist girth; for wrinkle products and elastic products, do not
test the dimensional change after washing along the width direction.

c Do not test this item when jeanswear products have undergone a special process such as special abrasion processing, destroy wash processing.

d Except jeans, do not test this item when the weight of fabric is below 245g/m2.

e For the test results of seam slippage, it will be judged as failed when pull-out, breakage and tears of fabrics or breakage of sewing threads occurs.

f Do not test this item when products cannot be sampled.

g Do not test this item on tops, shorts (skirts). Do not test this item for products with special design, for example, a large different between the width of front trouser piece and back trouser piece.

h Only test the jeans button on the waistband.

5. Details of The Technical Content

For more information, please refer to the China Industry Standard FZ/T 81006-2017<Jeanswear> or contact SGS directly.

SGS Global Softlines has an extensive network of over 40 laboratories worldwide, with a strong team of committed professionals from multi-disciplinary backgrounds. Our internationally accredited state-of-the-art testing laboratories offer a comprehensive range of physical, chemical and functional testing services for components, materials and finished products. We help your company ensure quality, performance and compliance with international, industrial and regulatory standards worldwide. Discover more at www.sgs.com/softlines.

For enquiries, please contact:

Louann Spirito
Director Technical Support, Softlines
t: +1 973 461 7919

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