During the World’s Toughest Row – Atlantic 2026, 44west spotlighted the urgent decline of coral reefs by raising over CHF 42,832 to support their reef project in the Philippines. Textile production can contribute to environmental pressures, including chemical runoff and microfiber release. In response, the European Union (EU) is reshaping how the industry manages and reports chemical use.
The EU is introducing new regulatory obligations for manufacturers and brands through the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) and the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD). Together, these frameworks raise the bar for chemical transparency, data accuracy and value‑chain collaboration. As reporting deadlines approach and the list of substances of concern (SoC) expands, companies are reassessing existing chemical management systems to meet the new compliance reality.
What is a substance of concern?
According to ESPR Article 2(27), a SoC is any substance that meets at least one of four criteria:
- Identified as a substance of very high concern (SVHC) under Regulation (EC) 1907/2006, Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH)
- Classified for chronic human or environmental hazards under Regulation (EC) 1272/2008, Classification, Labeling and Packaging of Substances and Mixtures (CLP Regulation)
- Regulated under Regulation (EU) 2019/1021 on Persistent Organic Pollutants (POPs Regulation)
- Known to negatively affect the reuse or recycling of materials in the product
More than 4,600 substances currently fall within the ESPR definition; a number that is expected to increase as new hazard classes for endocrine disruption, persistence, mobility and bioaccumulation take effect in 2026. Several per‑ and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) already meet one or more of these criteria, prompting increased regulatory scrutiny of their use in textile applications. This evolving landscape makes access to verified chemical data essential for both sustainability and compliance, shifting the industry from voluntary best practice to mandatory transparency at the company and product levels. These EU measures are also likely to shape regulatory developments in other regions.
Evolving sustainability obligations
ESPR: product-level transformation
ESPR introduces mandatory sustainability requirements for almost all goods sold in the EU. For the textile sector, this means:
- Identifying and disclosing all SoC above defined regulatory thresholds
- Integrating verified and traceable SoC data into Digital Product Passports (DPPs) to ensure full traceability
- Preparing for the delegated act for textile apparel, expected to be published in mid-2027
Beyond chemical transparency, ESPR will also mandate standards for durability, repairability, environmental performance and recyclability, placing chemistry, product design and circularity at the heart of future textile development.
CSRD: company-level accountability
The CSRD, together with the European Sustainability Reporting Standards (ESRS) E2 Pollution (November 2025 draft), requires companies to disclose information on SoC and SVHC. Under these rules:
- Chemical businesses must report the weight of the SoC and SVHC they procure, manufacture, place on the market or emit into the air, water or soil
- Manufacturers, importers and brands using articles that contain SVHC above 0.1% (in line with REACH) must disclose the name of those substances for all articles and components they procure or place on the market
Examples of required disclosures for chemical producers include:
- Total quantities of SoC or SVHC manufactured
- Total quantities released to air, water or soil
Together, CSRD and ESPR create a fully connected chain of responsibility that links upstream chemical suppliers to manufacturers and finished products.
Why are safety data sheets (SDS) not enough?
While many companies still rely on SDS, they only provide partial chemical transparency. They typically omit full formulations, undisclosed impurities and nuanced hazard profiles. As a result, many organizations may struggle to meet ESPR and CSRD obligations without a verified, standardized and comprehensive approach to chemical input management.
With mandatory chemical disclosure on the horizon, relying solely on SDS is no longer viable. ESPR and CSRD require primary data that is accurate, traceable and validated across the entire value chain. Meeting these requirements is non‑negotiable for any company operating in or selling into the EU.
bluesign solutions
We help organizations identify, manage and report SoCs through verified chemical input data, purpose‑built digital tools and value chain collaboration. All bluesign® APPROVED chemicals undergo full composition disclosure and assessment against hazards, consumer and worker safety, environmental fate, SVHC status and key regulations such as REACH and the POPs Regulation. Digital tools enable site‑level traceability, mass‑balance insights and CSRD/ESPR‑ready reporting. For example, dimethylformamide (DMF) used in footwear materials is tracked from the chemical supplier to finished goods, providing the verified primary data needed for CSRD E2‑5 disclosures and future DPPs. By connecting suppliers, manufacturers, brands and retailers, we support transparent, compliant and circular product design while helping organizations strengthen safety, reduce risk and gain a competitive edge in a more regulated global market.
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